July 18, 2007, 6200 miles: traded for a new KTM 690SM.

July 14, 2007, 6102 miles: Oil and filter change. .

June 30-July 1, 2007, 5485 miles: back from Los Pinos Pass Motorcycle Camping Trip.

June 28, 2007, 5082 miles: installed SW-Motech center stand. I've used the SW-Motech center stand on a previous DL650 and I know I like the quality, fit and convenience. I didn't want the extra weight but I've almost dropped it twice getting it on a swingarm stand. Now I can lube the chain or change tires without a hassle.

June 25, 2007, 5082 miles: met Mike for breakfast at Gateway. Mike was riding his '05 FJR1300, freshly serviced at 52,000 miles and with 200 miles on new Avon Storm sport touring tires. He suggested I ride his FJR and compare it to the '05 I had commented on after riding this same twisty canyon road on May 31. I'm glad I did. It's startling how different the two bikes seemed. On Mikes FJR I found the stock seat and windscreen much more to my liking. More importantly, Mikes bike was definitely not too softly sprung suggesting I misunderstood the owner of the earlier ride which must have been on full soft rather than full firm. Mike's bike felt stable and planted at all times. The damping settings seemed spot on even after 52,000 miles of damper wear. For reasons I don't understand, I rode the mostly high-speed sweepers in 5th gear while I often downshifted the earlier ride for proper feel pulling out of corners. I did notice the weight but mostly when stopped or transitioning. The steering seemed less slow than the earlier ride but that may have been the excellent Avon Storm tires. Oddly my inner knees did not get warm on a day in the high nineties but perhaps because I was wearing Kevlar mesh pants this ride. I was impressed with Mikes bike and like it a lot. I am also impressed with these recently introduced Avon sport touring tires. These tires have what Avon calls a "Reactive Footprint," a "footprint that changes size and shape depending on the bike's lean angle, growing in size the further over the bike goes." This latter feature may be hype or it may be real but these tires felt really good at high corner speeds. The FJR1300 was changed some for '04 and significantly for '06 so my impressions apply only to '04 and '05 models. (It just occured to me that both owners are named "Mike" which could cause some confusion.)

June 24, 2007, 4863 miles: did the Paradox, Taylor Flat ride yet again. Also went over the Uncompahgre on unpaved roads but not the Delta-Nucla road up from Delta but another road -- I don't know the name -- farther north, accessed where the pavement ends north of the Delta Correctional Center, and intersecting the Delta-Nucla road at Cottonwood Road.

June 20, 2007, 4526 miles: installed new Metzeler Tourance tires. OEM Bridgestone Trailwings worn to wear indicators on rear. Based on past experience I expect 35% to 40% more mileage from the Metzeler Tourance tires. Both work well for how and where I ride.

June 16, 2007, 4526 miles: back from Paradox Trail Loop.

June 13, 2007, 4263 miles: back from Aspen Loop; McClure Pass, Aspen, Independence Pass, Buena Vista, Cottonwood Pass, Gunnison, Black Mesa and home.

June 9, 2007, 3907 miles: back from Paradox Loop. Ordered new Metzeler Tourance tires from Southwest Moto Tires @ $255.90. I like the OEM Bridgestone Trailwings fine but they will be worn out at 5000 miles. That is consistent with my previous experience. Metzeler Tourance tires have lasted 7000 miles on my earlier DL650's. Bridgestone Trail wings cost $213.90 at Southwest Moto Tires -- $42 less than Tourance. Rounded, that's 23 miles per dollar for Trailwings. At that rate, if I get more than 5888 miles from the Tourance tires they will be less expensive in the long run. Fortunately, I like Tourance tires even better than Trail Wings. FWIW: some riders get many more miles than I do from any tire.

June 3, 2007, 3434 miles: back from Moab Rally.

June 1, 2007, 3035 miles: Oil and filter change at Davis Service Center.

May 31, 2007, 2956 miles: DL650 is a month old tomorrow. Today did 276 mile CO141 loop -- Ridgway, Norwood, Nucla, Gateway, Whitewater and home. This ride was different. I rode an '05 FJR1300 for about 125 miles as the owner was considering purchasing a DL650 and I thought an extended test was called for. We rode mostly twisty canyons and mountain roads, mostly at a brisk pace. I enjoyed the FJR. Great engine. Heavy and a little slow steering but still good handling, some minor wiggle in the wind but may have been big aftermarket windscreen or tail box, suspension on full preload but still felt soft, minor tendency to wallow in one rough sweeper, maybe needed more rebound damping in the rear. Plenty fast but not fast like a ZX9R or ZZR1200. Didn't feel as fast as a VFR800. I kept looking for the non-existent 6th gear. My inner knees got a little warm. Corbin seat was comfortable after initial feeling of being too tall for the bike. All in all I enjoyed the ride and can see why people like these motorcycles. Good to be back on the DL650 though which is lighter, more nimble and suits my style not to mention I kept seeing unpaved roads I wanted to ride -- not that the FJR couldn't do it but one wouldn't want to rock-chip all that plastic.

May 28, 2007, 2327 miles: I checked and adjusted the static sag today. This time-honored, fundamental suspension set-up, subject to some confusion in recent years and obviously neglected by the stiffer-is-always-better crowd, is something I normally do with any new motorcycle I intend to ride aggressively. I carefully set the static sag on my '04 DL650, prior to riding in a Jason Pridmore track school, but subsequently set up my '05, '06 and now this '07 DL650 based on that experience. Not only am I heavier (190 pounds now), the '07 DL650 is heavier, has a 15mm longer swing arm and perhaps other changes I may not be aware of. New measurements seemed a good idea and they were. Standard settings for preload are 3 lines on the forks and 2 on the rear damper. I had changed to 4 lines on the forks (softer) and 3 on the rear damper (firmer). After measurement I had to change to no preload on the front, even at my weight, and 4 lines of the rear (firmer yet). I also increased the rebound damping 1/2 turn to compensate for the stiffer spring preload on the rear. These settings, especially no preload in the front, run contrary to popular opinion on Internet forums but for road riders and occasional track riders, setting static sag according to time-honored tradition has one important recommendation: it works. It works well off pavement too for any speed appropriate on a big heavy bike. I intended to raise the fork tubes in the triple-clamps maybe 10mm or so but didn't because the longer swing arm already loads the front more.

May 24, 2007, 2230 miles: Back from overnight trip.

May 15, 2007, 1158 miles: Oil and filter change at Davis Service Center.

May 12, 2007, 1111 (actual) miles: rode to 141 Diner. Mike and Ken were there. We completed the loop through Naturita, Norwood, Ridgway and Montrose, stopping at Davis Service Center. My Givi side racks were in. Now I can mount my Pelican Cases.

May 10, 2007, 835 miles: San Rafael desert ride.

May 08, 2007, 407 miles: rode to Davis Service Center in Montrose. Checked out the new 2008 KLR650 -- very pretty in green. Rode home by way of Black Mesa. Nice ride. My new Pelican Cases are here, the Givi side racks due in a day or two.

May 03, 2007, 252 miles: met Mike and Jeff on CO141. Jeff was fresh out of 2 days of CLASS track school with Reg Pridmore at Streets of Willow. We did more talking at the 141 Diner than riding as hard, gusty winds were punctuated with rain showers.

May 02, 2007: installed SW-Motech crash bars and skid plate, OEM hand guards.

May 01, 2007: purchased new.
 

The Verdict: I've owned a lot of motorcycles over the years and I've liked most of them, some more than others. A few stand out as having been especially suitable for my needs, wants and personal preferences. When I think of those, the TR6C Triumph of the late sixties always comes to mind. Also, the Zundapp ISDT Replica was a special favorite from that era. More recently, the Kawasaki KLR650 has earned a spot among my all-time favorites. All these motorcycles were street-legal, multi-purpose motorcycles and all suited me for many enjoyable miles. The Suzuki DL650 is such a motorcycle. It's inexpensive to purchase, trouble-free to own, comfortable to ride, gets excellent mileage on regular fuel, handles very well on twisty pavement with or without a load of luggage, is great fun to ride on graded dirt and graveled roads and is much faster than the 650 singles. Best of all, the delightful engine has character, a subjective quality important to me. I'm grateful to Suzuki for building it and having the foresight to send it to the United States.

Fast Pavement: The DL650 performed exceptionally well on a tight track during a two-day Jason Pridmore STAR school. Report

Touring & Camping:
Given the will, a rider can find a way to tour and camp on almost any motorcycle. My trips are short. Obligations at home limit my adventures to one or two nights, three at the most unless I make special arrangements. I try to make the best of this situation and camp frequently in mostly out-of-the way, remote spots in western Colorado or eastern Utah. The KLR was a great motorcycle for this kind of riding and I didn't really need anything different. But I no longer ride the rougher roads and trails and wanted my multi-purpose motorcycle to be more road oriented. The DL650 offers more power, better weather protection and greater comfort at a modest increase in price.

Off-Pavement Use:
Here's the way I see it: 4WD Guide books rate trails as "Easy, Moderate or Difficult." 2WD cars/pickups, V-Stroms, BMW GS's, Triumph Tigers, etc. are well suited to "Easy" trails which can be moderately rough. 4WD vehicles or KLR650s with experienced riders can do well on "Moderate" trails while skilled and determined riders can do "Moderate" trails on a GS, Tiger, or a V-Strom with appropriate skid plate. While I'm well aware that a few BMW riders have taken GS motorcycles over "Difficult" trails, I don't really see the point. Even KLRs are out of their element here. A better, more sensible choice would be a real, light-weight dirt bike with 12 inches of suspension travel. My "Difficult" trail days are in the distant past. Now, I happily do "Easy" on my DL650.

After purchasing my first DL650 in February, 2004 I waited patiently for snow to melt on western Colorado's easy, as defined above, unpaved mountain passes. In the past I've ridden a dozen of these passes, some often, mostly on an R1150GS or KLR650. What better test for the DL650 than a 450+ mile loop that strings nine unpaved passes together in one ride, one day. Report

Fast Gravel/Dirt:
Some people are never comfortable on graveled roads, others see them as a delightful place to play. Count me among the latter. I ride dirt and graveled roads on a regular basis. My speed can be over 90MPH on good, packed, straight roads or as slow as necessary on deep, fresh gravel or loose-marble corners. Both the R1150GS and KLR were fun for this kind of riding but nothing thrills me like a powerful, torquey V-twin. The DL650 is serious fun and the engine is a jewel. Set the static sag, leave the radial tires firm or the handling may be mildly erratic, enjoy.

Windscreen:
For me, the windscreen on a multi-purpose motorcycle should compromise between protection and unobtrusive size. I want to easily see over it when I travel rutted or rocky roads at slow speed. I want it to allow plenty of steering lock. I want my helmet visor to remain bug-free. And of course I don't want excessive turbulence or noise. I believe these expectations to be reasonable. I'm 6 feet tall with a 32 inch inseam. I find the stock adjustable DL650 windscreen in the middle position meets all my expectations. The air stream hits me right above the top of my visor, keeping the visor bug-free. Turbulence is mild and noise moderate. My line of sight is well above the top of the windscreen.

Seat:
The stock DL650 seat is rounded at the front and dished about an inch lower than the DL1000 seat. The changes make it easier to maneuver the DL650 on uneven surfaces but the thinner seat seems to have firmer padding. Fortunately, I like firm padding and find the seat exceptionally comfortable. I would consider the DL1000 seat for its flatter surface but I like the lower, narrower seat for that small percentage of time I'm maneuvering on uneven ground and I don't want to spoil my relationship with the windscreen which works fine where I sit now. I like the OEM seat.

Modifications and Accessories:

Tank Bag: I've used three tankbags on my V-Stroms. I bought a Marsee Strapmount Teardrop 15 Liter Tankbag which looked expensive, had a stiff, preformed shape, fit like it was made for the DL650 and served me well for a few weeks until I broke a buckle and gave it away. At various times on all three V-Stroms I've used a Tour Master Cortech Mini-magnetic tank bag (because I always seemed to have one on hand) which attaches securely but looks ill-fitting, out of place and holds far less than its apparent size would indicate. I recently bought a Wolfman Explorer Lite which fits very well (don't get the KLR650-specific mounting harness) and holds far more than its apparent size would indicate. I'm not fanatical about buying American. In fact, I'm more likely to prefer something else such as Japanese cars and motorcycles. However, when it comes to motorcycle accessories, especially sewn items like clothing and luggage, I prefer an American manufacturer I can talk to directly if necessary. Wolfman Motorcycle Luggage is such a company and, for us here in Colorado, buying Wolfman luggage is supporting a local manufacturer. Wolfman luggage has a growing number of loyal customers (I've previously owned and liked a couple Wolfman Enduro tank bags) and a reputation for well-designed, well-made products. As of this writing, 06/04/06, I haven't had the bag long but already I'm becoming fond of it. I bought my Explorer Light from Fred Hink at Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab, UT but Eric the Wolfman himself was there to show me how easily it attached to my DL650 Suzuki.

IMS foot pegs for a KLR650 fit the DL650 perfectly without modification. Not that the DL650 really needs such foot pegs but I had a new pair and tried them. I've had them on since the bike was new and like them. I move my feet around on trips -- sometimes on my toes, other times with just my heel on the peg. These serrated pegs provide more security. I've experienced no vibration in these pegs. Of course, everyone knows rubber pegs are slick when wet or muddy. I purchased my IMS footpegs on-line from Fred Hink at Arrowhead Motorsports in Moab, Utah.
       

Hand Guards. My primary reason for having hand guards is to keep bugs off my gloves. A secondary reason is to keep some water off my gloves when riding in rain. I prefer the OEM hand guard option to all others I've used or tried.

Front Mud Flap. I ride a lot of dirt and gravel roads on my DL650, sometimes at fairly high speed. I'm not keen on throwing rocks at the oil cooler. I mounted a mud flap on my front fender. I had several choices on hand. I chose to use a small rear mud flap from J.C.Whitney because it did not add new curves or shapes to my front fender. All I really wanted was a fender extender. Black nylon license-plate bolts were used for mounting.

Side racks. I've used both Givi and SW Mo-tech side racks. Both are well made: the SW Mo-tech racks are quick-removable; the Givi racks cost less and fit a little closer. Most riders are familiar with Givi products. The German-made SW Mo-tech quick-detach side racks may need introduction. With appropriate kits, SW Mo-teck racks can fit sidecases from GIVI, Hepco & Becker, Kappa, Krauser, Suzuki (OEM) and more. The DL650 racks are not symmetrical as they would be on the DL1000. The DL650 has no muffler on the left side and that rack is set in nearly 1 1/2 inch closer. This reduces the empty space without making the lack of symmetry obvious.
 

Side cases. I've used both Givi cases and Pelican cases on my DL650's. The Pelican Cases, like SW Mo-tech racks, may need introduction.

Famously rugged, Pelican cases are ideal for a short-range "adventure touring" motorcycle. They bolt easily to the SW Mo-tech racks. I used a belt sander to remove ridges and protrusions from the back so the fit would be snug against the racks. At my local hardware store, I found Allen bolts with large, thin flat heads. I'm not sure what these bronze-colored bolts were intended for but the heads were perfect for my needs, taking almost no space inside the case. The bolts were longer than I needed; I cut 1/4 inch off each one. The racks are easily removable so it didn't bother me to bolt the cases to the racks. Nevertheless, I made this option more reasonable by ordering fitted inner soft cases as well. These inner cases are very well made with heavy, coarse-weave nylon, double walled construction over stiff foam padding. They hold their shape. The soft cases come with a bewildering assortment of velcro-attached dividers which I removed. The Pelican hard cases open like suitcases. The inner bags are both top and side loading. Access is better than any system I've owned. On the right side, opposite the side stand, I leave the inner bag in place using the rectangular hard case lid as a work table. On the left side, which leans toward the ground, I move the soft bag out and access contents on the seat. Bonus: a full-sized Rand McNally Road Atlas fits nicely in either hard case lid. After a trip, I remove perishables and set the inner bags on the shelf ready for the next trip. Empty hard cases are fine for day-tripping. On a camping trip to the Bavarian Mountain Weekend BMW rally in the mountains south of Taos, New Mexico, the functionality of these cases exceeded my expectations.
On a subsequent DL650 I bolted Pelican cases directly to Givi side racks. These cases were not easily removable but that never bothered me. I did have the fitted liners.

Pelican cases come in a variety of sizes but only one size, model 1520, has fitted inner cases available. Fortunately, this was a size that worked perfectly for me: Outside Dimensions: 19.12"L x 15.43"W x 7.56"H. This resulted in an overall width of 37 inches. That's nearly 1 1/2 inches narrower than an R1150GS with OEM side cases. Here's a couple pictures of the 1520 Pelican case and 1527 liner: picture 1, picture 2. A 1526 combination consists of both inner and outer cases together but for some reason, at two outlets I checked, the two items are about $9 less expensive if ordered separately. I ordered mine from http://www.all-pelican-cases-4-less.com/. Service was quick and efficient. I paid $79.72 each for the hard Pelican cases and $70.62 each for the soft liners. UPS Shipping from California to Colorado was $23.41. Note: the price has gone up some since I ordered these cases.

Mounting was obvious and easy. I did fasten the cases in place with double-sticky tape and bungie cords until I was sure I had them in a position I liked. I marked one case with a white grease pencil through four wide-spaced holes in the rack. Then I drilled the holes in that case and, after double-checking the fit and position, laid that case on top the other case, back to back, and marked through the new case holes with a grease pencil. After drilling those holes, I bolted the bags to the rack and was done. Well, almost done. I had a couple rectangular red reflectors laying around. I attached those to the lower backs of the bags with powerful double-sticky tape after first cleaning the spot with alcohol.

I'm not going to praise these Pelican cases too highly. We live in an age of prosperity. People seem to have an insatiable need for specialized equipment and clothing for whatever activity they do. I feel certain there will be resistance to believing gear that wasn't designed for motorcycling can be adequate, much less superior. Further more, at $317.21 for hard cases, soft cases and shipping (2004 price), how can this system possibly be acceptable.

These bags would not be convenient for people living in, or traveling frequently through, areas where they wished to keep the bags locked. The only provision for locking requires padlocks. That won't matter much out here in western Colorado and eastern Utah. I appreciate the ability to get into the cases with out fooling with keys. Perhaps I'll carry a couple small padlocks just in case I visit a city.

Pictures. Click for enlargement.      

Gerbing's Heated Clothing. I ride a lot in the winter with temperatures sometimes in the teens. Heated grips don't keep my fingertips warm. I decided to try heated gloves and, since the gloves must plug into something, it seemed reasonable to use a heated jacket with gloves that plug into the sleeves. Heating the upper torso is known be a good thing and an aid to warming the extremities. The objective here is to avoid that chilled-for-the-day feeling I've come to expect when starting a long ride on a cold morning. Once "chilled to the bone," as they say, I then feel chilled even in 50 degree temperatures.

I now use a Gerbing's Jacket, gloves and controller setup on my DL650 and other bikes. The results are all positive. I was concerned that wiring and hookup would be a bigger nuisance than I wanted but it seems simple enough. I use about 1/3 power when it's cool -- say 35 to 45 degrees. at 25 to 35 degrees I may use 1/2 power or more and in the teens or single digits I use 3/4 power or more. Oddly, I almost never feel the heat in my gloves but my hands and fingers do not get cold.

Not all motorcycles can handle the power required for the colder temperatures. Example: My bigger bikes such as the DL650 V-Stroms, BMWs, Honda 599 etc. have handled nearly full power for indefinite periods. My KLR650's and DR650 could handle only 1/2 power or less. How do I know this? On the KLR650s or DR650 I've used a charging indicator that is essentially a voltage indicator. This warns me if the output is insufficient for the load and, if heeded, prevents me from discharging the battery. On my present DR650 I use a Heads-up Voltage Indicator from Custom Dynamics. This device uses one small bulb capable of a flashing or steady light in one of three colors to indicate whether the system is overcharging, undercharging or within the correct range. Without it, I wouldn't have a clue whether the charging system was keeping up or not. Of course, the results would be different if the bike powered any additional electrical components such as auxiliary lighting.

After repeated use of the Gerbing's jacket liner and gloves with thermostatic temperature controller over a couple winters, here's how I keep warm and functional with temperatures in the teens or single-digits: light, long-sleeved cotton T-shirt (or wicking-fabric undergarment), Gerbing's heated liner-jacket, heavy Aerostich fleece liner-jacket, Warm, waterproof but breathable outer jacket, Gerbing's heated gloves, overpants over jeans and 2-ply cotton/wool long underwear lowers, loose-fitting SIDI On Road Sympatex boots with normal everyday socks, HJC AC11 helmet with mouth guard and a light coating of Fog Tech on the face shield. This works for me. Gerbing's is the only heated gear I've used so I can't say how it compares with other brands.

Over the years, I've ridden with several people who experienced failure of power delivery to their heated gear during the ride. Mine has never failed but nevertheless, I consider it prudent to carry spare fuses and clothing adequate for riding without heat if necessary.

Settings:

Suspension: I weigh 185 lbs. without riding gear. I never ride two-up. I like to ride fast on both paved and graveled roads. I especially enjoy high-speed paved sweepers at steep lean angles. I have no real complaint with the DL650 suspension and no plans to replace or modify anything. I started with all suspension settings adjusted according to recommendations found in the owner's manual and altered these settings only when I had a clear notion of how I might benefit from a change. I found the springs somewhat stiff for spirited off-pavement riding and reduced preload accordingly. Not wanting to change adjustments for different surfaces, I sought a compromise that would work well for fast pavement cornering while providing a reasonably supple ride off-pavement. According to the owner's manual, the standard front preload is position 3 with position 5 being minimum preload. The standard rear adjustment is position 2 with position 0 being minimum preload. I changed to position 4 in the front and position 1 in the rear. I did not change rebound damping in the rear. I found these new settings to be noticeably different and much better suited to my riding habits. However, in preparing the DL650 for a Jason Pridmore track school, I checked static sag. A balanced setting for me, about 30 percent of travel front and rear with my weight on the motorcycle, turned out to be no preload in the front and 3 lines of preload in the rear. A brief test ride on familiar twisty roads went well. This setting worked very well on the track. See STAR. This setting does make the front end much more sensitive in fast paved Sweepers at speeds over 100MPH -- partly because it raises the rear and lowers the front when the DL650 already has a steeper rake than the DL1000. I did find a DL1000 to feel more "planted" at 85MPH on a graveled road but I can't say I preferred one over the other.

Fairing fastener hint:

Sooner or later, a new owner will have to remove some plastic body parts. This may necessitate extracting a few interesting little plastic fasteners. These fasteners can be removed and re-installed without damage but the procedure is not intuitive. For the owner who hasn't encountered these fasteners before, here's the procedure:

The fastener is a two-piece item. A center pin, when pushed in flush, spreads the fastener and holds it tight. Depressing this pin farther into the fastener relieves this spread. To remove the fastener, apply the tip of a very small Phillips screwdriver -- any small, blunt-end tool will do -- and depress the pin into the fastener, maybe 1/8 of an inch or so, then slip a pocket knife blade or similar thin item gently under the edge of the fastener and lift it out.

To reinstall, pull the pin out of the fastener a bit, maybe 1/4 of an inch or less, put the fastener into the hole and push the pin in flush with finger or thumb. That's it.

Specifications:
Engine: 645cc, four-stroke, liquid cooled, 90 degree V-twin, DOHC, 8-valves
Bore Stroke: 81.0 x 62.6mm
Compression Ratio: 11.5:1
Fuel System: Fuel Injection
Lubrication: Wet sump
Ignition: Digital/Transistorized
Starter: Electric
Transmission: 6-speed
Final Drive: #530 chain
Overall Length: 2290mm (90.2 in.)
Overall Width: 840mm (31.9 in.)
Overall Height: 1390mm (54.7 in.)
Seat Height: 820mm (32.3 in.)
Wheel Base: 1540mm (60.6 in.)
Ground Clearance: 165mm (6.5 in.)
Dry Weight: 189kg (417 lbs.)
Suspension Front: Telescopic, cartridge-type, oil damped, adjustable preload
Suspension Rear: Link-type, adjustable spring preload and rebound damping
Brakes Front: Dual hydraulic disc
Brakes Rear: Single hydraulic disc
Tires Front: 110/80R-19
Tires Rear: 150/70R-17
Fuel Tank Capacity: 22 liter (5.8 gal.)

Actual Weight:
Total weight = 461 lbs.
Rear weight = 247 lbs.
Front weight = 214 lbs.

Weighed ready to ride with 1/2 tank of fuel (3 bars showing on gauge) and without side cases and racks.

Performance:
The May, 2004 issue of Rider tested the DL650 and found 63.4 HP and 42.4 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheel. Dynamometers vary and numbers are best used to compare two or more engines tested on the same unit. Cycle World reported 65 HP at the rear wheel.

Perhaps more important is how it feels. I came to believe the overall performance of the DL650 is very similar to the R1150GS I owned. Both the DL650 and R1150GS topped out at about 120MPH at Colorado elevations and both accelerated rather slowly above 100MPH. The R1150GS had more torque, so it felt the most powerful for ordinary riding -- just as a cruiser engine feels powerful but isn't fast. (The new R1200GS is more powerful and lighter in weight than the R1150GS.)

Fuel Consumption Summary (2004 DL650):

From 1 to 2000 miles:
Average = 49.6 MPG.
Best = 54.8 MPG (during break-in)
Worst = 43.2 MPG (after break-in, very fast cruising on lightly traveled western highways)

From 2000 to 12000 miles:
Average = 53.25 MPG (excluding track time).
Best = 60.0 MPG. (4 tanks at 60MPG while leading friends on a 3 day scenic Colorado ride)
Worst = 39.6 MPG (excluding track time, did include some high-speed cruising)

200 miles of high-performance track time = 33.6 MPG.

I use regular unleaded fuel -- 85 or 86 octane in the mountains, 86 or 87 octane at lower altitudes. This mileage may not be typical of what one can expect in other parts of the country due to variations in elevation and fuel content.