Ulysses Riders  (Not the Buell Ulysses but a town in Kansas)

Left to right:  Howard Pickens, VFR800  |  Jeff Fowler, V-Strom 1000  |  Gale Eveleigh, Gold Wing  |  Tim Cantrell, VFR800

A memorable 2-day loop in Colorado and Utah
November 2—3, 2007:

The Trip: Two days and 600 miles for me; four days and hundreds more miles for the Ulysses riders.

Day one: we left from Delta, rode to Whitewater then CO141 with a stop at Gateway Canyons, lunch in Naturita, continuing on CO141 to near Dove Creek then west into Utah to Monticello, south to Blanding, west again to near Natural Bridges then south to Muley Point, Moki Dugway and on to Bluff for dinner at the Twin Rocks Cafe and a good night's rest at the Recapture Lodge.

Day two: after breakfast at the Twin Rocks Cafe, we rode UT162 southeast into the Navajo reservation, made a fuel stop at Montezuma Creek, turned northeast near Aneth on the McElmo Canyon road then north to Hovenweep where we spent an hour or two. From Hovenweep we rode east again into Colorado, then south on US491 to lunch at a roadside restaurant a few miles north of Cortez. After lunch we rode to near Dolores where we parted company, the Ulysses riders heading towards Durango and Pagosa Springs, me heading home via Lizard Head Pass, Telluride, Dallas Divide, Ridgeway and Montrose.

Narrative: Some rides are memorable for all the usual reasons: delightful roads, great motorcycles, beautiful scenery and interesting companions. A few rides are special for these and less obvious reasons more difficult to articulate, at least for me. This was such a ride.

The circumstances and coincidences that comprise this ride really began last summer. While stopped at a CO92 rest stop overlooking the Gunnison River Canyon, I heard the distinctive sound of a cam-gear-whine generation VFR800 approaching. This rider and his buddy on a Honda 919 pulled in for a look at the view. As often happens in such circumstances, this chance encounter led to a lengthy conversation; partly because I had owned a VFR800 and had great respect for them. I gave the VFR rider, Tim Cantrell of Ulysses Kansas, my web site address and we all continued in opposite directions toward our destinations.

About the end of October I got a call from Tim Cantrell asking about road conditions and weather in Colorado. He and three friends from Ulysses were coming to Colorado for a ride, the destination not yet decided. I volunteered to be a guide if they chose to ride unfamiliar roads. We agreed to meet in Montrose the afternoon of November 1.

Circumstances delayed their departure and I arrived at the meeting place while they were still a couple hours away so I rode east to meet them. We met a few miles west of Gunnison and rode together to Davis Service Center in Montrose where Tim knew a couple people. There I was introduced to the other Ulysses riders: Gale Eveleigh (Goldwing); Jeff Fowler (V-Strom 1000); Howard Pickens (another VFR800). I had this vague feeling I had seen them all before. While at Davis Service Center, we discussed where they would ride. Tim expressed an interest in riding into southeastern Utah. That's my playground. I offered some suggestions. We agreed on a ride to Muley Point and Moki Dugway via CO141 with an overnight stop at Bluff, UT and a return to Colorado the next day by way of obscure but paved back roads with a stop at Hovenweep National Monument. Since our route would take them through Delta and I would meet them there, they decided to spend the night in Delta.

I met them for breakfast on Friday morning, November 2, after which the ride was on. At Whitewater we turned onto CO141 and Unaweep Canyon. There was an unusual amount of traffic but not enough to spoil the ride. Those of us so inclined rode a spirited pace in appropriate sections of twisty road, pausing afterward to regroup with the more sensible riders. This pattern was repeated through Dolores Canyon and again climbing out of Disappointment Valley. I hope everyone enjoyed the ride.

Somewhere I mentioned to Gale Eveleigh that I was sure I had seen him before, not mentioning yet that they all looked familiar. I suggested maybe we had crossed paths at a BMW rally. No. He mentioned he had attended a car show in Gateway in the spring. I said I had been in Gateway that same day. I was sure I had seen him.

We refueled at the Outpost in Gateway. Too early for lunch at the 141 Diner, we continued on 52 miles to Naturita and had excellent hamburgers at a cafe I had never stopped at before. From there we continued on through Disappointment Valley to US491 near Dove Creek and west to Monticello UT where we refueled again. From Monticello we rode south past Blanding to UT95, west to UT261 and south again to the 4-mile unpaved road to Muley Point. I was somewhat apprehensive about encouraging these riders to take their beautiful motorcycles down a sandy road but they had no problem, even with a short section of soft squirmy sand. I believe the surprise and grandeur of the view from Muley Point made it all worth while. I enjoyed it too. I never tire of Muley Point; it exceeds my expectations every time I go there.

We paused again at the top of Moki Dugway to consider the abrupt descent to the desert floor 1000 feet below. This too was unpaved but well groomed and no problem. Riding away from a spectacular sunset towards blood-red canyon walls, we arrived at Bluff just at dark. The Recapture Lodge had rooms and we were home for the night except for a short ride to the other side of town for dinner at the Twin Rocks Cafe.

Morning light comes late this time of year, especially near the western side of a time zone. I went out early and walked about, enjoying the bright stars of a desert sky. A cup of coffee seemed in order and while in the Motel lobby I had a nice conversation with two Gentleman we had met at Muley Point the afternoon before. Interesting people. One had started programming computers in 1956, beating my 1962 start by a half dozen years. I don't meet many people who even know we had computers back then. I hope their trip was as enjoyable as ours.

After a good breakfast at the Twin Rocks Cafe, we were on the road again, headed towards fuel at Montezuma Creek on the Navajo Reservation. At the fuel stop, Tim met a Navajo who had worked near Ulysses Kansas for a colorful character they all knew in common. Later, along the San Juan River, an oncoming Navajo policeman turned on his flashing blue and red top-bar lights. We weren’t speeding. He didn't stop. Don't know what that was about.

We spent a couple hours at Hovenweep, walking out to some of the ruins. From there we took an unmarked paved road east into Colorado where we headed south on US 491. Late for lunch, we stopped at the first place we came to — a non-descript roadside restaurant a few miles north of Cortez. In this land of forgettable food we lucked out again as it was quite good. In conversation, Gale mentioned that last spring in Colorado he saw a rider and passenger on a new Sportster go wide in a turn in Unaweep Canyon and hit the guard rail. He was right behind them. I told him I didn't see it but I was there that day and heard about it, now more sure than ever that I had seen him at Gateway.

After lunch at the restaurant we all shook hands and said our good-bys in preparation of going separate directions a few miles down the road. I finally mentioned that I had this haunting feeling that I had seen Jeff and Howard before. They said, "We were all there at Gateway that day. We had lunch at the 141 Diner." Surprised, I responded, "I had lunch at the 141 Diner that day." Subsequent conversation revealed that I had been riding a V-Strom at the time and Jeff had come over to talk to me as we were all leaving. I even remembered seeing his V-Strom, perhaps as I entered the cafe since he wasn't parked near me. What a coincidence.

For me it was a great ride for many reasons. I had planned to make much the same ride alone on almost the same two days. I'm very grateful that the Ulysses riders allowed me to ride with them. Still, the ride alone would not have been so exceptional had the Ulysses riders not been intelligent, interesting, experienced riders with great stories to tell. For me, often a loaner, the right camaraderie can be a pleasant experience. Tim wants me to join him at a Jason Pridmore track school near Pueblo. I'm old enough I probably shouldn't and I said no but hedged.

It would please me to ride with all the Ulysses riders again.

—Verle Nelson, Cedaredge Colorado