As reported by Verle Nelson
On September 15, 2009, Scott Chambers and I met at Placerville, Colorado for a ride to Capitol Reef National Park and a look at the Cathedral Valley roads in the northern part of Capitol Reef National Park. We were both riding 2009 Kawasaki KLR650s, good choices for a ride that would involve both distance and bad roads. This trip was planned for a narrow space in both our schedules. We had two days to do it all, leaving no opportunity for revising the schedule around unexpected bad weather. Despite ominous NOAA/National Weather Service forecasts of near certain thunderstorms and rain, we agreed to go, sacrificing the weather-sensitive, remote and primitive Cathedral Valley roads, salvaging what other parts of the plan seemed appropriate on the fly. It worked out very well indeed. Nearly all the country we visited was more beautiful than ever because of the stormy weather. Only 40 miles would I not want to repeat but more on that later.

Scott and I met at Placerville, Colorado at 8:30a.m. Tuesday September 15, 2009. It sprinkled some before, during and after the meeting but we soon rode under sunny skies, leaving an ominous black cloud in our wake. Good riding on CO 145 NW to CO141, on to Monticello and Blanding in Utah, UT95 to Hanksville for lunch with heavy clouds and rain making the desert and Henry Mountains very beautiful around White Canyon, between Fry Canyon and Hite.

After lunch, we rode through a few miles of hard rain near Torrey only to enter town minutes after a hail storm whitened the lawns and surrounding hills. We secured rooms at the Boulder View Inn, then rode on to an overlook near the summit of Thousand Lakes Mountain for an expansive view of Cathedral Valley, Waterpocket Fold and surrounding desert thousands of feet below. The sky grew dark, clouds rolled in at our elevated level, a storm seemed imminent.

Scott led off the mountain and set a fast pace. I've stayed at the Boulder View Inn several times. It's privately owned; the rooms are nice. It once was inexpensive but nothing is anymore. Quick hot showers and clean shirts refreshed us. It was time for dinner and the Cafe diablo was a short walk away.

The Cafe diablo is a most incredible gourmet restaurant, surreal, a fantasy, unbelievable (diablo is not capitalized which I believe suggests an adjective meaning, "Seasoned with hot spices, esp. hot pepper"). How can it be in this remote small Utah town? How can it be crowded with customers? Who are they, these obviously-not-local people who dine late at very expensive prices? Scott asked our lovely, intelligent waitress from New Zealand, almost certainly part Moriori, who the customers were. She mentioned Europeans, especially Germans and French, second-home Salt Lake City people in the surrounding area and Salt Lake people who come there just to eat because of past experience with the chef. Scott and I shared an excellent bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon. Scott ordered rubbed Atlantic pan flashed salmon with Caineville greens, crab flautas & tomato fondue. I had Sage & rosemary infused marinated loin of lamb, casamiento pie, asparagus & pasilla verde sauce. We even chose from an unbelievable dessert tray. We added a generous tip for the lovely Moriori and split the $143 check without hesitation, both happy and pleased with the food and experience. I would say this may have been the best meal I've ever had but such an overused phrase simply doesn't do the meal justice.

Next morning we rode over the Aquarius Plateau, a most thrilling ride indeed as the road, freshly graded not long before the previous afternoon's rain, was fast, fun and dust free. I've made several rides over the Aquarius Plateau and this may be my favorite gravel road anywhere.

More good gravel road riding on the Hell's Backbone road.

Breakfast at the Hells's Backbone restaurant in Boulder was very good and very expensive. The waitress, a local girl, when asked about the stream crossing at the southern end of the Notom-Bullfrog road (at the foot of the Burr Trail) said it might be flooded, suggested we ask a ranger at the Anasazi Site. We did. The ranger said it would almost certainly be flooded. I asked about the other end, out through Notom. She said that too would likely be washed out and muddy. I asked if soft powder I rode in August was sand or dirt. She replied, "Clay." I hated for Scott to miss the Burr Trail and suggested we ride it then turn around and come back, a 70 mile round trip.

On the way down to the Burr Trail and lower desert, I estimated there had been only one quick, hard rain the day before and no serious washouts. Maybe the road was better than people believed. After the Burr Trail, one arrives at a T intersection near the middle of the 67 mile long, mostly unpaved Notum-Bullfrog road. Go North 34 miles to UT24 or south 33 miles to Bullfrog Basin and Lake Powell. Near the Bullfrog end a stream bed must be forded. Sometimes it runs a little water, it may even be dry, occasionally it is flooded or washed out. Finding the ford flooded and backtracking 68 miles to Boulder was too risky. I suggested, "Let's ride the Notom road despite advice to avoid it." This is the road I was on last August, finding considerable soft stuff in a few places but not enough to turn me back. Did slow me though. This time the sand (not clay as I was told) was damp and packed enough to be fast and fun, the washout crossings only moderately muddy, nothing to slow much for. We made far better time on this ride than I did in August. So much for local advice which I have usually found good-intentioned but often incorrect.

Fuel at Hanksville then non-stop to Moki Dugway, maybe 130 miles. Fuel at Bluff then non-stop to Cortez, riding towards the biggest, blackest sky I've seen in a while. Cortez to Rico was hard rain and near total darkness. Visibility was very poor. Scott was leading at a remarkable dry road pace despite the heavy rain, even passing what little traffic there was. I mostly followed Scott's tail light. Fortunately we rode out of the storm and into daylight again before Lizardhead Pass. We arrived at the junction near Telluride with a little daylight left. Scott was home. We bought gasoline, agreed it was a great trip except for the 40 miles of rain and darkness and said our goodbye's.

I had 100 miles left to ride for a 2-day trip total of 1032 miles, 120 unpaved. I called my wife to tell her I would be late, then headed home with hard rain on Dallas divide, light rain off and on afterwards. Got to Cedaredge about 9:15 after a 2nd-day ride of nearly 15 hours, 558 miles, maybe 80 miles unpaved, one meal stop, a few fuel stops and forty miles of hard rain—Home with more good-road memories than seem possible for an overnight trip

Scott's Photographs
Scott's Gallery and slide show of selected photographs with introduction and captions.
Scott's Gallery and slide show of more and larger photographs.