Verle Nelson — Cedaredge, Colorado — May 11, 2006
Hovenweep, a Ute word meaning "deserted valley," refers to several canyons and small river valleys that feed into lower McElmo Creek and the San Juan River from Cajon Mesa on the Utah-Colorado border. The Anasazi occupied this area from about 500 to 1300 AD, building the masonry towers and pueblos which Hovenweep National Monument has protected and preserved since 1923.

The structures at Hovenweep are numerous and varied. Multi-storied towers perch on canyon rims and precipitous monoliths, a testimony to the skill and motivation of Anasazi builders. Hovenweep is noted for its solitude and undeveloped, natural character. Only limited archeological work has been done at Hovenweep. None of the structures have been rebuilt; many remain standing after 700 years.

The six major Hovenweep site groups are located within a 20-mile drive of each other along the Utah-Colorado border. Park headquarters are located at the Square Tower Group. National Park Service web site

Square Tower Group at Little Ruin Canyon,
Hovenweep National Monument.
(All photographs except Square Tower are mine, click on small picture for enlargement.)


Twin Towers
Hovenweep Castle, looking south.
National Park Service Photo
Square Tower

Hovenweep Castle, looking east.
Hovenweep Castle, looking north.

Round Tower
Rim Rock House
Stronghold House

Narrow Trail
Shy Visitor

The Ride, May 10-11, 2006

Trip route:

  • Day one — Cedaredge to Delta in Colorado, west over the Uncompahgre Plateau on graveled Delta-Nucla road to CO141, on to US491 (formerly known as US666) near Dove Creek, west to Monticello in Utah, south through Blanding to Bluff.
  • Day two — Bluff to Aneth, on to Hovenweep National Monument, back to McElmo Canyon road to Cortez, CO, north to Dolores, North on back roads to Norwood, on to Naturita, Nucla and back over the Uncompahgre Plateau.

    Highlights:

  • Left Cedaredge at 2:00 P.M., arrived Bluff at 5:30 P.M with almost no traffic on route from Delta, CO to US666 near Dove Creek, CO. Route choice missed the towns of Nucla and Naturita making the stretch between Delta and Monticello over 100 miles with no towns.
  • Hovenweep because it is not heavily visited and has not been over-developed. Two mile hike around Square Tower Group went well even in stiff, new Sidi motorcycle boots.
  • The 60 miles of back road, more than half unpaved, between Dolores and Norwood with the only traffic, until near Norwood, being one road grader.
  • A fast-moving mountain lion crossed my path about 100 yards ahead on the return trip over the Uncompahgre Plateau.
  • Graveled roads! I love riding graveled roads and this trip had about 140 miles of graveled roads.

    Disappointment:

  • County road 10, a graveled road leading northeast from the Hovenweep area to Pleasent View, CO, was closed for paving. Now all the roads to Hovenweep will be paved making it a less desirable side trip for me.